Maman's Cheese Soufflé

Maman’s Cheese Soufflé

When my mother got married, she was seventeen and my father was twenty-two. She did not know how to cook, except for a few simple dishes when she got married that she had learned from her mother. Yet she was willing and fearless.

My father liked cheese soufflé, so my mother gracious, obliged. She had never made a soufflé before, but a friend told her that it consisted of a white sauce (béchamel), grated cheese, and eggs — a cinch! To the béchamel, that staple of the French home cook, she added her grated Swiss cheese and then cracked and added one egg after another to the mixture, stirred it well, poured it into a gratin dish, and baked it in the oven. Voilà! No one had told her that the eggs should be separated, with the yolks added to the base sauce and the whites whipped to a firm consistency and then gently folded into the mixture. Ignorance is bliss, and in this case it was indeed: the soufflé rose to a golden height and became a family favorite.

This is a great recipe; it can be assembled hours or even a day ahead, and although it is slightly less airy than a standard soufflé, it is delicious.

Yield: 4 Servings

Ingredients

  • 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, plus more to butter a 6-cup gratin dish 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 2 cups cold whole milk
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 5 extra-large eggs
  • 2½ cups grated Swiss cheese, preferably Gruyère (about 6 ounces)
  • 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives

from The Apprentice by Jacques Pépin © 2015 by Jacques Pépin, courtesy of HarperCollins Publishers

Recipe Source

The Apprentice

In this captivating memoir, the man whom Julia Child has called “the best chef in America” tells the story of his rise from a frightened apprentice in an exacting Old World kitchen to an Emmy Award–winning superstar who taught millions of Americans how to cook and shaped the nation’s tastes in the bargain.

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